TRADITIONAL INDIAN FASHION EVOLUTION
- SWARNIM SHARMA
Fashion is all about style and elegance which undergoes constant evolution. The changes in the fashion trends usually reflect the political and social scenario across several nations.
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India is known for its diversity all over the globe. Ethnic clothing is just one of the things that distinguish one part of India from the other.Traditional Indian clothing dates back more than a thousand years.The history of fashion in India has evolved and left its mark all over the world including organizations like UNESCO. To understand today’s fashion, we must reflect on the past and go back years.
During the Harappan Civilization in 2500 BC, India was a rich cultivator of cotton and silk and as depicted in cave paintings from Indus Valley Civilization humans were covered with clothes that were mainly wrapped around the body and this is where Sarees and Dhotis came into being. The tradition of Silk Sarees dates back to this era, where women from aristocratic families draped themselves with opulent Silk fabrics. Both sexes of this period adorned themselves with jewellery made from turquoise, lapis lazuli, gold and silver.
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Through the years and ages of being ruled over by various dynasties, the fashion changed accordingly and one of the most impactful was the Mughal dynasty. It gave birth to some beautiful dresses like anarkali, garara, sharara, lehenga and also salwar&churidar. The Mughal dynasty’s citizen always adorned jewellery and ornaments such as anklets and bangles. Even today’s bride prefer wearing anarkali and lehenga.
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The Rajput’s are another great and powerful dynasty that embraced grandeur, chivalry and endorsed an ethnic pride. The Rajput’s were warrior and were given Kshatriya martial practises which reflected their dressings. The attire for men included an Angarkhi, a Pagdi and the churidar pyjama and a kamarband was added to complete this look. This evolved into a Sherwani for the groom’s wedding. The Rajput women opted for fine Sarees and Lehengas. Royal Rajasthani jewellery, from the days of the early Rajwada, is still very much in fashion, as diverse dignitaries and celebrities still sport them. Rajputana jewellery is most famous for its Kundan and Meenakari work. The nathni is the most important piece of jewellery and a part of every Rajputana Bridal Attire.
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Saree, dhoti, ghagra choli remained quite popular in the pre and post-independence era. But with the influence of Western culture, many changes were seen in Indian fashion. Embroidery is a trademark of Indian fashion which is vastly used on silhouettes like sarees, lehengas, suits and many other attire and is also widely used in western fashion. The embroidery started emerging on western attires like shirts, skirts, dresses etc. and became a fashion statement. It makes a good amalgamation of Indian and Western style.
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Indian designers have played a major role in making the fashion world what it is today! The fashion industry is still evolving and emerging in the country with a major emphasis on sustainable and Eco-friendly fashion.
India was in British hands for almost 200 years. The major change that took place in the Indian clothes is that the one that took place due to the influence of the Western Civilization. Britishers found it inappropriate that women used to cover themselves with saree and after that only blouses and petticoats were introduced.
In the 1920s, the sarees were made with Georgette and Chinese silk styled with bright colored choli.
During the late 1930s, women wore blouses with padded shoulders and silk sarees were preferred over cotton sarees. During this time, sleeves were shorter which made them increasingly demanding.
The introduction of mini skirts created a storm around the world but due to the presence of traditions in the Indian society, the Indian women could not wear miniskirts which upgraded the salwaar kameez and kameez came into trend which was a few inches above the knee.
By the time the 2000s arrived, the salwar kameez again underwent remarkable change. Its new variant came to be known as Kurtis which can be styled differently.
In today's world, women are choosing to style ethnic attire at formal, semi-formal, casual or regular occasions and events.
Women prefer saree with sober colours with thin borders or delicate embroidery which are graceful and elegant. Hand loom as a fabric looks elegant and chic.
Kurtas are styled with different bottoms from leggings to trousers.
The traditions and customs of the society also play a pivotal role in the evolution of fashion industry. The ethnic fashion in India is stronger than ever with a lot of emphasis on the revival of hand looms and local craftsmanship. The influence of global fashion on Indian dressing and clothing is also increasing by the day which makes Indian fashion more versatile.
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